Czapek & Cie Time Jumper
10 for 10:
Czapek & Cie celebrates its 10th anniversary with Calibre 10
Celebrating a decade since the revival of the Maison’s name, Czapek trips back to the future with the Time Jumper, powered by the new in-house Calibre 10. A new twist on traditional guillochage decorates the futuristic form of its 40.5 mm steel case and the half-hunter cover plays hide-and-seek with the time indication and the open-worked movement that drives it. Released as a limited edition of 100 pieces in stainless steel and 30 in 3N 18-carat gold, the watch will be unveiled at a 10th birthday celebration that will gather Czapek’s Rare People from all over the world in Geneva on November 12.
Reimagining the pocket watches created by François Czapek in the 19th century in playful, avant-garde style, the watch is centred on a jumping hour complication displaying 24 hours on two discs (a première with a patent-pending mechanism) and complemented by trailing minutes on a peripheral ring. On the half-hunter cover, a new, threedimensional guilloché pattern creates the optical illusion of a black hole, its event horizon taking the form of a loupe in the centre that reveals the open-worked complication. Flipping the cover open unveils the entire movement beneath a sapphire crystal glass.
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“Our goal with the Time Jumper was to rethink the expression of time and bring something new and fresh to the table,” says CEO
Xavier de Roquemaurel. “We have been keen to explore time indications without traditional hands and a jumping hour is one way to do that. However, the jumping hour displays that have been done until now tend to be quite similar and we wanted to express the complication in our own, different way.”
The result is an almost literal expression of Czapek’s ‘head in the sky, feet on the ground’ style of thinking: the former translated into a retro-futuristic ‘flying saucer’ case; the latter rooted in the traditional round shape derived from historic pocket watches.
Calibre 10 and the next decade
For the 10
th anniversary milestone, it might be assumed that Czapek would create a highly complicated calibre to show off its technical evolution and
haute horlogerie credentials. However, given the delight it takes in going against the expected flow, Czapek chose simple functions – hours and minutes only, albeit with an unconventional display – to celebrate this first decade as a modern
haute horlogerie house.
The conceptual genesis of Calibre 10 lay in the notion of exploring and dissolving the space-time continuum. The Maison’s previous nine calibres have been essentially traditional: contemporary reinterpretations of classical complications, expressing a modern Czapek style – philosophically, technically, visually – that has become increasingly recognisable over the past decade.
Calibre 10, born from the desire to explore new timekeeping ‘space’ over the coming 10 years, has been designed as the foundation of a series of in-house movements that will host a wide variety of complications. Celebrating the true spirit of haute horlogerie, each evolution of Calibre 10 will be completely redesigned and re-engineered so that every complication is fully integrated – an entirely different philosophy from adding modular functions to a simple base, which is the standard approach in watchmaking driven by commercial or industrial optimisation.
To make this possible, the key criteria were that the movement should be self-winding, compact in both diameter and height – thus able to be housed in cases as small as 36mm in diameter – and with a highly adaptable architecture. As well as ensuring that every future iteration of the calibre will be aesthetically distinctive, this approach enhances mechanical efficiency – since conventional stacking of modules often increases friction, thus reducing both power reserve and precision.
“Elliott, that machine, what does it do?”
The starting point for the Calibre 10 architecture is a centrally mounted winding rotor in recycled 950 platinum, skeletonised to provide an unobstructed view of the movement. The overall design is harmonious and fluid –
‘very Czapek’ with its graceful curves, concentric circles and airy interplay of bridges, visually anchored by the strong, straight lines of the rotor’s
‘arms’, shaped like a geometry compass, which attach it to the central axis.
The 5-spoke design of the wheels with their diamond-bevelled edges, an exclusive Czapek signature.
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Calibre 10.1 – the first application of the Calibre 10 technical philosophy – combines the central jumping hours display on a 24-hour register, with trailing minutes on a rotating peripheral ring. The hours are marked on two sapphire discs – one for single digits, one for tens. With the flying saucer shape of the case suggesting an astronaut’s watch, a 24-hour register seemed a natural complication, as well as being a departure from the standard 12-hour register.
Haute horlogerie finishes, in combinations that have come to define Czapek’s signature aesthetic, add life and movement. The high shine of rhodium coated bridges contrasts with blackened plates to create a play of reflections and increase the sense of visual depth: light against the deep black of space. Traditional negative engraving on the winding rotor plays against the modernity of laser-engraved minutes and hours – the latter filled with Super-Luminova.
Representing another stage in Czapek’s technical evolution, Calibre 10.1 was not only designed, conceived and assembled in-house, but also machined 75% in-house. This is not to suggest that Czapek is striving for full vertical integration. The principle of établissage is a fundamental value that it will always defend. However, greater in-house capabilities allow agility and freedom: the ability to produce elements internally while also choosing and collaborating with the best specialist partners in any given area.
Given the conceptual notion of dissolving the space-time continuum, a techno-futuristic
habillage was the natural visual expression – hence the flying saucer shape, popularised by science fiction of the mid- to late-20
th century (a topic fascinating to Xavier between the ages of 11 and 18 – as it was to many boys growing up at that time).
The traditional round shape and half-hunter case loop back to the form of pocket watches and the 19th-century genesis of today’s Czapek. However, Czapek’s design partner for the project, Thomas Funder, has used curves and angles to express that tradition in a different and less-expected way. A key design element – also present in earlier Czapek watches – is the tension between balance and imbalance, symmetry and asymmetry, beauty and strangeness.
“We wanted an avant-garde and uncompromising design without being extreme – different from other Czapek models yet a clear expression of the brand’s signature elements and aesthetic codes,” explains
Xavier.
The design was led by the jumping hour display, which determined the form and style of the minutes. These had to be in a
guichet or aperture – hence the half-hunter idea, which in turn created an ideal canvas for
guillochage. With the cover closed, all eyes are on the hour indication – under the bubble-shaped loupe in the centre of the case (the flying saucer cockpit), which is set directly over the dial crystal. With the cover open, the full reveal of the mechanism and the complications is there to understand and enjoy.
Straight lines and flat planes are almost non-existent. The case, produced by Czapek’s partner AB Concept, is as smooth as a pebble – and as aerodynamic as a spacecraft. Soft curves are present in every detail: the oval-shaped button to release the case cover, the polished and rounded ends of the lugs, the rounded crown with the notches required for grip half-hidden close to the case. Straight edges have been minimised even on the strap buckle.
The
guilloché pattern on the case cover adds another visual layer. Czapek’s longstanding partner Metalem, which has been evolving the once-lost
savoir-faire of
guillochage in new ways, had proposed a new pattern that proved to be perfect for this piece and is now exclusive to Czapek. An evolution of the vortex-like Singularité
guilloché created for the Antarctique Tourbillon, it creates the optical illusion of curves being drawn into a deep centre.
Czapek will produce only 180 pieces of Calibre 10.1 movements, to celebrate the 180
th anniversary since the original founding of the
maison in Geneva in 1845. The Time Jumper will be first introduced with a limited edition of 100 pieces in stainless steel and 30 pieces in 3N 18-carat gold. The rest of the calibres will be used for special projects, including an allocation of 10 bespoke pieces – that can be ordered immediately by contacting the Czapek boutique.
The Time Jumper will be unveiled on the 12
th of November 2025 in Geneva during a gathering of media, collectors, partners and friends of the Czapek community, and will be available on order at the Czapek boutique in Geneva at 18 rue de la Corraterie, at authorised Czapek dealers worldwide, and at
Czapek.com.