CHANEL J12 Bleu

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CHANEL J12 Bleu


It’s not black. It’s not white. It’s Bleu.
La Cote des Montres - April 7th, 2025

 
 
New J12 Bleu
Limited Edition

For the first time ever, CHANEL dresses its iconic watch in blue matte ceramic. Twenty-five years after the J12 revolutionized the watch industry - the black edition launched in 2000 and the white in 2003 - the J12 BLEU explores a new territory where the expert savoir-faire of the CHANEL Manufacture gives rise to a series of exceptional creations in an exclusive colour.


Deep and matte. Intense and unique. CHANEL creates the J12 Bleu, giving this emblematic watch a ceramic hue that is as exclusive as it is powerful. Although blue has always been part of the House’s palette, present in fashion, beauty and even of the jewellery boxes of the 1932 “Bijoux de Diamants” collection, it is interpreted today in a new shade exclusively made for watchmaking.

 
“In the course of 25 years, CHANEL has elevated ceramic to the level of a precious material” says Arnaud Chastaingt, Director of the CHANEL Watchmaking Creation Studio. “The art of ceramic is undeniably CHANEL watchmaking and our outstanding savoir-faire: it is an inspiring material that, thanks to the genius of our engineers, offers a vast creative playing field”.

 
It took five years of research for the CHANEL Watch Manufacture to develop the J12 BLEU’s exclusive hue, demonstrating the absolute mastery of the production techniques of this sophisticated material that is scratchproof, highly resistant and durable.

 

The J12 BLEU color
 

 
 

Developing a ceramic color unlike any other required years of research. A singular shade, too blue to be black, too black to be entirely blue.

 
“I dreamt of giving a colour to black, of illuminating it with blue. The final choice of this particular blue was like an epiphany” continues Arnaud Chastaingt. “I wanted a blue that has a rigorous elegance, a blue that is nearly black or a black that is nearly blue”.


The J12 BLEU bears witness to the excellence of the CHANEL Watch Manufacture craftsmanship, perfectly mastering the development and production process of this singular blue ceramic.

 
A blue that reveals its multiple facets with the play of light, adorns nine new creations combining radiance and discretion, excellence and precision. A collection of nine watches, some of which set with bright blue precious sapphires, is casting the spotlight on to the J12 BLEU…

 

The CHANEL ceramic
 

 
 

7 times stronger but lighter than steel, the House’s highly resistant ceramic stands the test of time. Several additional precise, innovative manufacturing steps are needed to achieve the matte finish.

 

J12 Bleu
Caliber 12.1
 

 
 

An exceptional creation equipped with the Caliber 12.1, a self-winding movement made by the Swiss Manufacture Kenissi, co-owned by CHANEL, and chronometer-certified by the COSC.

 

From Paris
to Switzerland
 

 
 

It took 5 years to bring the new J12 BLEU to life. Designed by the CHANEL Watch Creation Studio at Place Vendôme in Paris, the timepiece is fully produced at the House’s Watch Manufacture in Switzerland, from the making of the ceramic components to the final assembly. See behind the scenes, where unparalleled savoir-faire meets the highest aesthetic and technical standards.

 

The setting
of sapphires
 

 
 

The setting of the 46 vibrant blue natural sapphires upon the bezel required approximately seven hours of work within the CHANEL Watch Manufacture.

CHANEL is one of the few Houses with a watchmaking workshop that has mastered so many gem-setting techniques. This unique asset enables CHANEL to control the entire manufacturing process for its most precious watches and thus fulfill the artistic vision of the Creation Studio.

For the J12 BLEU 38 MM SAPPHIRES WATCH, the CHANEL Watchmaking Creation Studio has selected these vibrant blue natural sapphires for their radiance and the striking contrast they create with the matte blue ceramic.

 


Caliber 5
 

CHANEL Manufacture movement  
 

1. The 172 components of Caliber 5: CHANEL Manufacture mechanical movement with manual winding.
2. Once placed, the mobile cage of Caliber 5, will complete one full rotation per minute, while within it, the diamond will revolve upon itself in sync with the passing seconds.
3. The meticulously refined finishes of Caliber 5 which is as mesmerising from the back side as it is from the front.

Within the CHANEL Watch Manufacture, a department is dedicated exclusively to the development and assembly of Haute Horlogerie movements. True technical feats in service of boundless creativity. Designed in 2022, the Caliber 5 is the first in-house flying tourbillon movement, featuring a rotating solitaire diamond set on the tourbillon cage that creates a hypnotic effect. This diamond has a specific cut with 65 facettes to maximize its brilliance.

 

J12 BLEU
Caliber 12.1
38 MM
 

Ref.: H10310
Limited edition  
 

 
When the bright blue of the indicator’s baguette-cut sapphires meets the matte blue ceramic imagined by the CHANEL Watchmaking Creation Studio, an effortless elegant J12 BLEU appears. Blue in its purest form.

Equipped with the Caliber 12.1 for the 38 MM and the Caliber 12.2 for the 33 MM, these black-coated movements are made in the Swiss Kenissi Manufacture, co-owned by CHANEL.

Reference :H10310
Case :Matte blue highly resistant ceramic and black-coated steel
Caseback :Sapphire crystal with “LIMITED EDITION” mention
Bezel :Black-coated steel fixed bezel and matte blue highly resistant ceramic ring with baguette-cut pattern
Dial :Matte blue varnished dial set with 12 baguette-cut blue sapphires (~0.28 carat)
Crown :Black-coated steel screw-down crown with matte blue highly resistant ceramic cabochon
Movement :Caliber 12.1
Self-winding Manufacture movement, with black coating, chronometer-certified by the COSC*
Power reserve : ~70 hours
Functions :Hours, minutes, seconds
Water resistance :200 meters
Diameter :38 mm
Bracelet :Matte blue highly resistant ceramic
Clasp :Black-coated steel triple-folding buckle
Sapphires :12 baguette-cut blue sapphires (~0.28 carat)
Carats and materials are indication only. The values are non-binding.
 
* Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute

J12 BLEU
Caliber 12.2
33 MM
 

Ref.: H10309
Limited edition  
 

 
When the bright blue of the indicator’s baguette-cut sapphires meets the matte blue ceramic imagined by the CHANEL Watchmaking Creation Studio, an effortless elegant J12 BLEU appears. Blue in its purest form.

Equipped with the Caliber 12.1 for the 38 MM and the Caliber 12.2 for the 33 MM, these black-coated movements are made in the Swiss Kenissi Manufacture, co-owned by CHANEL.

Reference :H10309
Case :Matte blue highly resistant ceramic and black-coated steel
Caseback :Sapphire crystal with “LIMITED EDITION” mention
Bezel :Black-coated steel fixed bezel and matte blue highly resistant ceramic ring with baguette-cut pattern
Dial :Matte blue varnished dial set with 12 baguette-cut blue sapphires (~0.22 carat)
Crown :Black-coated steel screw-down crown with matte blue highly resistant ceramic cabochon
Movement :Caliber 12.2
Self-winding Manufacture movement, with black coating, chronometer-certified by the COSC*
Power reserve : ~50 hours
Functions :Hours, minutes, seconds
Water resistance :200 meters
Diameter :33 mm
Bracelet :Matte blue highly resistant ceramic
Clasp :Black-coated steel triple-folding buckle
Sapphires :12 baguette-cut blue sapphires (~0.22 carat)
Carats and materials are indication only. The values are non-binding.
 
* Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute

J12 BLEU
Caliber 12.1
38 MM
 

Ref.: H9632
Limited edition  
 

 
With its matte blue ceramic finish, 38 MM case, blackened bezel and glossy varnished indicators, the J12 BLEU Caliber 12.1 embodies the very essence of this collection. The ceramic bezel is adorned with a baguette motif for a distinguished elegance.

This new watch icon is equipped with the self-winding Manufacture Caliber 12.1 movement, which is chronometer certified by COSC* and has a power reserve of 70 hours. It is produced by the Swiss Kenissi Manufacture, co-owned by CHANEL, co-owned by CHANEL.

Reference :H9632
Case :Matte blue highly resistant ceramic and black-coated steel
Caseback :Sapphire crystal with “LIMITED EDITION” mention
Bezel :Black-coated steel fixed bezel and matte blue highly resistant ceramic ring with baguette-cut pattern
Dial :Matte blue varnished dial with black varnished indicators
Crown :Black-coated steel screw-down crown with matte blue highly resistant ceramic cabochon
Movement :Caliber 12.1
Self-winding Manufacture movement, with black coating, chronometer-certified by the COSC*
Power reserve : ~70 hours
Functions :Hours, minutes, seconds
Water resistance :200 meters
Diameter :38 mm
Bracelet :Matte blue highly resistant ceramic
Clasp :Steel triple-folding buckle
 
* Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute

J12 BLEU
Caliber 12.2
33 MM
 

Ref.: H9657
Limited edition  
 

 
This interpretation of the J12 BLEU features a 33 MM watch case set with 12 diamond indicators.

Visible through a sapphire crystal case-back, the 12.2 Caliber is adorned and equipped with an oscillating mass presenting a perfect circle, a CHANEL Watch signature. It is a certified chronometer by the COSC, Official Swiss Watch signature, and has a power reserve of 50 hours.

Reference :H9657
Case :Matte blue highly resistant ceramic and black-coated steel
Caseback :Sapphire crystal with “LIMITED EDITION” mention
Bezel :Black-coated steel fixed bezel and matte blue highly resistant ceramic ring with baguette-cut pattern
Dial :Matte blue varnished dial set with 12 brilliant-cut diamonds (~0.06 carat)
Crown :Black-coated steel screw-down crown with matte blue highly resistant ceramic cabochon
Movement :Caliber 12.2
Self-winding Manufacture movement, with black coating, chronometer-certified by the COSC*
Power reserve : ~50 hours
Functions :Hours, minutes, seconds
Water resistance :200 meters
Diameter :33 mm
Bracelet :Matte blue highly resistant ceramic
Clasp :Steel triple-folding buckle
Diamonds :12 brilliant-cut diamonds (~0.06 carat)
Carats and materials are indication only. The values are non-binding.
 
* Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute

J12 BLEU
Diamond Tourbillon
 

Ref.: H10334
Limited edition  
 

 
The essence of CHANEL Haute Horlogerie, this J12 BLEU features a flying tourbillon whose hypnotic rotations are magnified by a 65-facet solitaire diamond set in the center of its cage. Gabrielle Chanel’s favorite stone lights up the openwork blue dial while enhancing the natural sparkle of the 34 baguette-cut sapphires set on the bezel of this self-winding mechanical watch.

This J12 BLEU ceramic is endowed with a special finishing touch – the sides of the case and bracelet have been hand-polished for 8 hours – and beats to the rhythm of the Caliber 5, the result of three years of development at the Manufacture. Comprising 172 parts, this diamond-set flying tourbillon movement is a signature of the CHANEL aesthetic and watchmaking expertise.

Reference :H10334
Limited edition :55 pieces
Case :Matte blue highly resistant ceramic and black-coated steel
Caseback :Sapphire crystal with “LIMITED TO 55” mention
Bezel :Steel with black coating fixed bezel set with 34 baguette-cut blue sapphires (~4 carats)
Dial :Blue openworked
Tourbillon cage set with 1 solitaire diamond with an exclusive cut (~0.18 carat - F/G - VVS)
Crown :Steel with black coating non-screw-down crown set with a brilliant-cut diamond (~0.16 carat)
Movement :Caliber 5
CHANEL Manufacture mechanical movement with manual winding with flying tourbillon
Power reserve : ~42 hours
Functions :Hours, minutes
Complication :Flying tourbillon
Water resistance :50 meters
Diameter :38 mm
Components :172
Jewels :29
Frequencye :28’800 vibrations per hour (4Hz)​
Balance shock protection system​
Variable inertia balance​
Diameter
of movement
:28,40 mm – 12’’’½
Thickness :6.25 mm
Bracelet :Matte blue highly resistant ceramic with polished bevels
Clasp :Steel with black coating triple-folding buckle
Blue sapphires :34 baguette-cut blue sapphires (~4 carats)
Diamonds :1 solitaire diamond (~0.18 carat) and 1 brilliant-cut diamond (~0.16 carat)
Carats and materials are indication only. The values are non-binding.
 

J12 BLEU
X-RAY
 

Ref.: H10337
Limited and numbered edition  
 

 
A tribute to transparency, the J12 BLEU X-RAY conjures a new shade of blue for this collection, inspired by the colours of the sea and the sky on a clear day. Over 1600 hours of work were required to sculpt the case and bracelet of this model from a single block of synthetic sapphire. Crafted in white gold, the bezel and links are set with 196 bright blue baguette-cut natural sapphires. For the ultimate detail, the Creation Studio ties white gold with black and creates an elegant contrast to this symphony of blues.

At the heart of the Caliber 3.1, the choice of the colourless sapphire for the plate and the two bridges highlights the beauty of this J12 BLEU X-RAY whose gears seem to float in the air. This impression is accentuated by a floating bridge in a colorless sapphire, adorned with 12 baguette-cut bright blue natural sapphires indicators.

Reference :H10337
Édition limitée :12 numbered pieces
Case :Matte blue highly resistant ceramic and black-coated steel
Caseback :Blue sapphire crystal with “X/12” numbering
Bezel :18K white gold with black coating fixed bezel set with 46 baguette-cut blue sapphires (~5.61 carats)
Dial :Sapphire crystal dial set with 12 baguette-cut blue sapphires (~0.43 carat)
18K white gold with black coating hands
Crown :18K white gold with black coating non screw-down crown set with a brilliant-cut blue sapphire (~0.17 carat)
Movement :Caliber 3.1
CHANEL Manufacture manual-winding mechanical movement with manual winding with the timer bridge, the plate and the gear-train bridge in sapphire crystal
Power reserve : ~55 hours
Functions :Hours, minutes
Water resistance :50 meters
Diameter :38 mm
Components :158
Jewels :21
Frequency :28’800 vibrations per hour (4Hz)​
1 barrel with set flange ​
Skeleton movement​
Balance shock protection system​
Variable inertia balance​
Diameter
of movement
:29.35 mm
Thickness :6.77 mm
Bracelet :Blue sapphire crystal and 18K white gold with black coating bracelet set with 138 baguette-cut blue sapphires (~10.15 carats) and 18K white gold
Clasp :Black coating triple-folding buckle
Blue sapphires :196 baguette-cut blue sapphires (~16.19 carats) and 1 brilliant-cut blue sapphire (~0.17 carat)
Carats and materials are indication only. The values are non-binding
 

J12 BLEU
42 MM SAPPHIRES
 

Ref.: H10289
Limited edition  
 

 
Playing with extremes, the CHANEL Watchmaking Creation Studio has imagined this watchmaking duo that presents two J12 watches, one with a 42 MM case and the other with a 28 MM case.

This exceptional Mini & Maxi pair is adorned with blue sapphires that illuminate the bezel, dial and bracelet. An infinite source of brilliance, the bright blue of the natural stones contrasts with CHANEL’s matte blue ceramic. More than 110 hours of gem-setting within the CHANEL Manufacture were required to embellish these two J12 cases, with 170 baguette-cut sapphires for the 42 MM and 196 baguette-cut sapphires for the 28 MM. The blackened steel bezels and crowns enhance the depth of the blue of the ceramic by highlighting these subtle nuances.

The J12 BLEU 42 MM SAPPHIRES is equipped with the COSC* chronometer-certified self-winding Caliber 12.1 Manufacture movement, dipped in a black finish, specific to Haute Horlogerie pieces.

Reference :H10289
Case :Matte blue highly resistant ceramic and steel with black coating
Caseback :Sapphire crystal with “LIMITED TO 12” mention
Bezel :Steel with black coating fixed bezel set with 48 baguette-cut blue sapphires (~7.44 carats)
Dial :Matte blue varnished dial set with 12 baguette-cut blue sapphires (~0.28 carat)
Crown :Steel with black coating non-screw-down crown set with a brilliant-cut diamond (~0.16 carat)
Movement :Caliber 12.1
Self-winding Manufacture movement, chronometer-certified by the COSC*, with black coating
Power reserve : ~70 hours
Functions :Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Water resistance :50 meters
Diameter :42 mm
Bracelet :Matte blue highly resistant ceramic and steel with black coating bracelet set with 110 baguette-cut blue sapphires (~9.29 carats) and steel
Clasp :Black coating triple-folding buckle
Blue sapphires :170 baguette-cut blue sapphires (~17.01 carats)
Diamond :1 brilliant-cut diamond (~0.16 carat)
Carats and materials are indication only. The values are non-binding.
 
* Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute

J12 BLEU
28 MM SAPPHIRES
 

Ref.: H10290
Édition limitée  
 

 
Playing with extremes, the CHANEL Watch Creation Studio has imagined this watchmaking duo that presents two J12 watches, one with a 42 MM case and the other with a 28 MM case.

This exceptional Mini & Maxi pair is adorned with blue sapphires that illuminate the bezel, dial and bracelet. An infinite source of brilliance, the bright blue of the natural stones contrasts with CHANEL’s matte blue ceramic. More than 110 hours of gem-setting within the CHANEL Manufacture were required to embellish these two J12 cases, with 170 baguette-cut sapphires for the 42 MM and 196 baguette-cut sapphires for the 28 MM. The blackened steel bezels and crowns enhance the depth of the blue of the ceramic by highlighting these subtle nuances.

Reference :H10290
Limited edition :12 pieces
Case :Matte blue highly resistant ceramic and steel with black coating case
Caseback :Steel with black coating with “LIMITED TO 12” mention
Bezel :Steel with black coating fixed bezel set with 46 baguette-cut blue sapphires (~2.16 carats)
Dial :Matte blue varnished dial set with 12 baguette-cut blue sapphires (~0.12 carat)
Crown :Steel with black coating non-screw-down crown set with a brilliant-cut diamond (~0.05 carat)
Movement :High-precision quartz
Functions :Hours, minutes, seconds
Étanchéité :30 meters
Diameter :28 mm
Bracelet :Matte blue highly resistant ceramic and steel with black coating bracelet set with 138 baguette-cut blue sapphires (~5.72 carats) and steel
Clasp :Black coating triple-folding buckle
Blue sapphires :196 baguette-cut blue sapphires (~8 carats)
Diamant :1 brilliant-cut diamond (~0.05 carat)
Carats and materials are indication only. The values are non-binding
 

J12 BLEU
38 MM SAPPHIRES
 

Ref.: H10288
Limited edition  
 

 
Le bleu vif des 58 saphirs naturels taille baguette qui sertissent la lunette et les index de la J12 BLEU 38 MM SAPHIRS s’accorde avec le bleu sourd de la céramique, preuve éclatante de l’excellence du savoir-faire de la Maison en matière d’appairage et de sertissage.

Elle est équipée du mouvement Manufacture à remontage automatique certifié chronomètre par le COSC*, Calibre 12.1, qui bénéficie ici d’une finition noire, spécifique aux pièces de Haute Horlogerie.

Reference :H10288
Limited edition :100 pieces
Case :Matte blue highly resistant ceramic and steel with black coating
Caseback :Sapphire crystal with “LIMITED TO 100” mention
Bezel :Steel with black coating fixed bezel set with 46 baguette-cut blue sapphires (~6 carats)
Dial :Matte blue varnished dial set with 12 baguette-cut blue sapphires (~0.28 carat)
Crown :Steel with black coating non-screw-down set with a brilliant-cut diamond (~0.16 carat)
Movement :Calibre 12.1
Self-winding Manufacture movement
Chronometer-certified by the COSC*, with black coating
Power reserve : ~70 hours
Functions :Hours, minutes, seconds
Étanchéité :50 meters
Diameter :38 mm
Bracelet :Matte blue highly resistant ceramic
Clasp :Steel with black coating triple-folding buckle
Blue sapphires :58 baguette-cut blue sapphires (~6.28 carats)
Diamond :1 brilliant-cut diamond (~0.16 carat)
Carats and materials are indication only. The values are non-binding
 
* Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute
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