Indeed, thanks to an innovative conception requesting breakthrough materials and technologies, this concept watch does not need the usual adjusting components of mechanical movements:
- conceived as a mono-bloc piece and manufactured in carbon crystal (material allowing the use of a micron engraving technology), the balance-wheel is directly well balanced
- calculated to obtain an optimum chronometry and manufactured in an innovative material called Zérodur®* (material allowing the use of a micron engraving technology), the active length of the hairspring is directly adapted to the balance-wheel
- manufactured in carbon crystal, the anchor and the anchor wheel are perfectly matching at the time of assembly
Moreover, this concept watch remains perfectly adjusted throughout its lifetime thanks to:
- a carbon crystal escapement cage mounted on silent-blocks (true shock-absorbers of the movement) which protect all the regulating components (hairspring, balance-wheel, anchor, anchor wheel, escapement axis),
- a manufacturing of all regulating components in materials insensitive to thermal variations and magnetic fields (balance-wheel, anchor and anchor wheel in carbon crystal, hairspring in Zérodur®*, axis in titanium),
- movement components with a very low friction coefficient. Indeed, they are either coated with ADLC, either manufactured in carbon crystal: this coating and this material do not need liquid lubrication (oil or grease)
Adjusting: a major know-how in mechanical watchmaking
TTraditionally, a mechanical watch’s movement requires several adjusting operations done by a master watchmaker. These adjusting operations are mandatory to ensure the good functioning of the watch.
As soon as the watchmaker starts assembling the watch, he needs to operate several adjustments:
- Make the balance-wheel perfectly balanced, either with adjusting screws, either by removing matter on the rim
- Adjust the hairspring with the balance-wheel by modulating its active length, most of the time using an index assembly
- Ensure a good match between the escapement components (anchor and anchor wheel), by modifying the position of the adjusting pallet-stones on the anchor.
In some situations the movement might get misadjusted: in case of shocks or magnetisation, when there are strong thermal variations or when the oils get too old or dried. If this happens, the movement has to be re-adjusted.
Cartier manufacture mechanical movement with automatic winding, without adjusting
- Diameter: 16 lignes ½ soit 36,8 mm
- Thickness: 6,12 mm
- Number of jewels: 17
- Number of pieces: 177
- Anchor and anchor wheel: carbon crystal, without jewel pallet-stones. Double-barrel with around 52 hours power reserve
- Main plate in brass coated with ADLC (Amorphous Diamond-Like Carbon) and decorated with Côtes de Genève.
Hairspring in Zérodur®*,
without index assembly.
Balance-wheel mono-bloc, in carbon crystal,
28 800 vibrations / hour
Oscillating weight in tungsten carbide coated with ADLC
* The Zérodur® hairspring is still being worked on. The brand Zérodur® does not belong to Cartier.
- Niobium-titanium 46 mm case,
- fabric strap,
- adjustable folding clasp in 18k white gold.
- Sapphire crystal and caseback.
- this concept watch is not made to be commercialised.